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| User list | Rules | You are not logged in.
Hi
Its me again.... 
After christmas i decided to buy a gigapan epic pro and used it today.
First of all , it worked great with the import in APG and the preview looks ok.
But the sky and the snow is blown, despite shooting in RAW and the sun was setting down. (the RAWs itself weren't blown at all)
I think its just my inability to use APGs full potential, but could someone tell me what are the most important parameters if i want to correct the exposure in the sky and snow?
When i set one of the mountain/sky pictures as a referance it changes to a much better exposure, but i cant "force " APG to apply that setting to all the picture in the sky.
Would really appreciate your help.
Regards
Max
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Hi Max.. did you set your WB on your camera.. ??
Destiny
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Yeah the WB was set to "shadowed" because when the sun sets, the mountains generate a lot of shadows....
I now adjusted the WB a bit more "natural" with PS and loaded the images again in APG and hope it will give me some better results.
Its so sad that i had APG for so many years and didnt used it as much as the last 2 days
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Mehlsack wrote:
Hi
Its me again....
After christmas i decided to buy a gigapan epic pro and used it today.
First of all , it worked great with the import in APG and the preview looks ok.
But the sky and the snow is blown, despite shooting in RAW and the sun was setting down. (the RAWs itself weren't blown at all)
What format were the input images?
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they were all DNG RAWs shot by a Pentax K5
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Mehlsack wrote:
Would really appreciate your help.
Hey Max!
Two strategies:
1) measure on the highlight when there´s intense sun and other bright areas. When you measure on the highlights the rest gets darker - but the lights unlikely will wash out.
2) the definitely preferable way would be to use bracketing like -2/0/+2 when you use RAW or try -1,5/0/+1,5 when you use JPG.
To cover such a wide range of bright light and shadows a usual DSLR most unlikely will be able to do. You either get washed-out lights or too dark shadows.
In that case bracketing is optimal.
Once you have washed-out parts in your shots you lost.
But try in the RAW-converter to set the curves to "linear". In Lightroom as example that works good. Also put the "black" slider to zero (it´s usually at 13 by default).
You also can pull the highlights and the bright tones seperately - that additionally might help.
But nevertheless: what you do correct in the shot you can very much easier edit later.
best, Klaus
P.S.: use a good RAW converter like PhaseOne or Lightroom resp. Photoshop. The RAW converter which are built in in applications like APG work, but they´re not the best ones.
Dedicated RAW converter do a better job - that´s why they cost extra money.
Last edited by klausesser (2012-12-30 04:03:46)
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Maybe i should adjust everything with PS and convert it to jpeg or tiff before using APG.
I was just under the impression that using the RAWs for the stichting would give more possibilities to merge the images together.
I tried your things and its "ok" not perfect but ok for a first attempt.
The image is around 7700 Megapixels and took around 2h30min to be rendered. I will try to upload it today and will give you the link later.
Thx for your help, construktive critizism would be greatly appreciated.
Edit:
Final Panorama :
http://gigapan.com/gigapans/b4aee2536d7 … 86a9d68793
Sadly some problems with gigapan when i startet to move to fast after some shots
I think my to-do-list fpr the next time is:
1.fix WB
2. stabilize the Gigapan ( the quick release plate isn't very tight fitting :S )
3.find a way to slow gigapan down if the shots take longer....
Last edited by Mehlsack (2012-12-30 14:08:23)
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Mehlsack wrote:
I think my to-do-list fpr the next time is:
1.fix WB
2. stabilize the Gigapan ( the quick release plate isn't very tight fitting :S )
3.find a way to slow gigapan down if the shots take longer....
very important is to avoid any automatic.
I saw a video some months ago on youtube from somebody who did a workover on the Epic to make it
more steady. Maybe that´s interesting for you.
Can´t you set a time for the head to wait for your exposure to be finished and only then move on? Im quite sure you can. . . 
It´s definitely preferable to process RAW files first in a dedicated RAW application. I use PhaseOne C1 and export the processed RAWs as TIFF 8bit.
When i use HDR i usually export the processed images as TIFF 16bit.
best, Klaus
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Mehlsack wrote:
Final Panorama :
http://gigapan.com/gigapans/b4aee2536d7 … 86a9d68793
What lens did you use on your Pentax K5 to shoot this pano?
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the DA*300, why?
Yeah i will try to find to video.
I am sure that the giganpan CAN do something like that, is just dont know it yet( its my second day with it and i had to do some university stuff)
And i dont want the head to wait everytime it makes a photo and i hoped that he might get some Feedback like " shutter open" with the remote cable (obviously i was wrong)
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Mehlsack wrote:
the DA*300, why?
Yeah i will try to find to video.
I am sure that the giganpan CAN do something like that, is just dont know it yet( its my second day with it and i had to do some university stuff)
And i dont want the head to wait everytime it makes a photo and i hoped that he might get some Feedback like " shutter open" with the remote cable (obviously i was wrong)
We have an option on the Panoneed-head that the camera communicates to the head when it finished an exposure and the head can proceed - without needing a static wait-time where it needs to wait for each exp. as long as the longest exp. time lasts . . . (which means doing a bracketed series the head waits lets say 5sec for the longest exp. which means +2 for example. It´s obvious that the 0 and -2 times are much shorter and the head wouldn´t need to wait 5 sec. nevertheless for EACH exp.).
So we save a lot on time with bracketed series of many steps or/and long exp. times.
I don´t know whether the EpicPro communicates with the camera in a way the camera gives a feedback to the head?
best, Klaus
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Mehlsack wrote:
And i dont want the head to wait everytime it makes a photo and i hoped that he might get some Feedback like " shutter open" with the remote cable (obviously i was wrong)
As far as I know that's not possible, byt Klaus sems to think otherwise.
Last edited by mediavets (2012-12-30 18:52:21)
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klausesser wrote:
We have an option on the Panoneed-head that the camera communicates to the head when it finished an exposure and the head can proceed - without needing a static wait-time
How does that work then?
Whta connection(s) do you need between the camera and the Panoneed head to make that work?
Last edited by mediavets (2012-12-30 18:55:38)
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Mehlsack wrote:
the DA*300, why?
Just wondered; you pano image seems very 'soft' all over.
Were you using autofocus?
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No i didnt use AF.
I think i stopped down a bit too much (f 13) und the weather wasn't perfect, so you had some misty/foggy layer between you and the city.
I read in another Forum that the AF sometimes doesnt work with Pentax's DSLRs.
Edit: The problems above are enchanced by the "not so sturdy" gigapan quickrelease plate, so i think next time this problem should be solved....
Well and of course i dont have your georgous "netraul hazer"
Last edited by Mehlsack (2012-12-30 19:12:46)
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mediavets wrote:
klausesser wrote:
We have an option on the Panoneed-head that the camera communicates to the head when it finished an exposure and the head can proceed - without needing a static wait-time
How does that work then?
Whta connection(s) do you need between the camera and the Panoneed head to make that work?
I´ll tell you when the head is rolled out . . . 
But i can asure you: it works fine.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2012-12-30 19:34:36)
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Mehlsack wrote:
No i didnt use AF.
I think i stopped down a bit too much (f 13) und the weather wasn't perfect, so you had some misty/foggy layer between you and the city.
I read in another Forum that the AF sometimes doesnt work with Pentax's DSLRs.
Edit: The problems above are enchanced by the "not so sturdy" gigapan quickrelease plate, so i think next time this problem should be solved....
Well and of course i dont have your georgous "netraul hazer"
Three points:
1) you obviously exceeded 100% - . That´s - though Gigapan Org. seems to prefer it - not wise at all . .
2) I suggest f8/11 - so you should be in the right range using f13 (where does that funny number come from?)
3) take care for:
A) the stability of the head,
B) the stabiluty of the tripod.
C) Always use mirror-up.
D) avoid heavy winds.
E) take care to have an appropriate lens-shade (usually understeimated).
F) when possiblel use short exp. times.
best, Klaus
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Are you sure it works with pentax as well? (your new secret panohead)
If you know it for sure i will give my epic pro back
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Mehlsack wrote:
Are you sure it works with pentax as well? (your new secret panohead)
If you know it for sure i will give my epic pro back
The head basically works with all cameras. The comunication head-camera-head works preferably with DSLRs . .
best, Klaus
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Mehlsack wrote:
Are you sure it works with pentax as well? (your new secret panohead)
If you know it for sure i will give my epic pro back
As I understand it the Panonned head will be around twice the pruce of the Gigapan Epic Pro, but it will be far more versatile and much more robust.
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well, i think i will stick with the epic pro at the time beeing, should be enough for the things i do
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