It can be related to many part so perhaps could you post here one input image and the rendered output so we can guess where it comes from.
Some ideas to look at :
- color correction : enabled ? disabled ?
- rendering mode ?
- input images : raw or jpg, tiff ?

jeradg wrote:

I have tried using Workflow Case B and E, but I am getting dark sections or entire darkness depending on which images I have for detection. Prior to 2.6.1 I was not having this problem.

My goal is to output as HDR, adjust color/lighting in Photoshop CS5, and then put into Panotour.

This jpg looks a lot like the preview inside AP, but not quite as bad.

Edit: The one in the classroom with a dark spot to the left is very common. It's almost always dark on the left. I output this as HDR then converted 16 bit and then saved as jpg.

Hi!

Did you try color-correction and anchors?

best, Klaus

Can you try 2.6.2 RC2 which has a fix for 360° blending that looks like this kind of issue ?
( don't use TIFF 16 but PSD 16bits ).

I am having the same problem with AP Pro 3.0 -

When I view the image in the Editor window it looks bright and even burned in places, but when processed it shows in photoshop or acdsee as too dark and excessive contrast. I have tried many permutations of the settings and have found no useful/predictable setting that works. This problem holds true using the same source images on 2 different PCs on which AP Pro 3 is installed. It appears to be gamma-related; when it shows in the AP Pro Editor it is at a higher gamma, but when rendered it appears to be produced at a lower gamma than the editor shows.

Anyone else notice this or have a solution?

Last edited by homelands (2012-12-18 21:01:14)

shutter-bracketed (constant aperture) hdr using Promote Control. There is no jpg manual white balance available on-camera, and there was no colour-correction chosen in AP

yes. they are stacked by 5 bracketed shots X 4 stacks = 20 full-frame fisheyes (Samyang 3.5 8mm)

homelands wrote:

There is no jpg manual white balance available on-camera?

Really? What camera did you use?

Last edited by mediavets (2012-12-19 10:42:00)

With M-mode I refer to programm mode M, part of the series P, S, A, M you will find on the knob on the top left of your camera. Which mode do you normally use?

homelands wrote:

Manual - but the camera is controlled by Promote Control HDR device providing more brackets and Exposure values than the camera on its own (5 brackets at 1.7 EV each.

lol - if you dont listen to real good and proofen tips... why do you ask at all?
sorry now for writing like a teacher:

set your lens to manual focus
set your camera to manual focus
set your camera to manual aperture
set your camera to manual exposure time
set your camera tn manual whitebalance
(shoot raw for later changeing whitebalance and some other values if needed)

ever (*)

and also when using promote control device. if you dont trust us here then look this promote-systems video. its 8 minute long and if you in hurry then jump to minute 4:20 or so: "set your camera to manual..."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TstWu67p … tube_gdata

(*) in combination with promote control there is also an execption from this rule: if you use focus stacking and you have in consequence a camera with live view than focus is not manual set.

Georg

PS:
and the reason is also very simple: if your camera is NOT in manual mode, than how can you be sure the promote control is overruling the camera internal settings and who gives you guarantee that your camera is using for all images the same settings & values...
and if no promote control is used: than the manual mode gives you complete equally developed images your stitching program can stitch without having dark or very bright spots in some parts of your pano...
(it may happen that all images than are to brigthen or to dark, but this can be solved in the raw images at first and later autopano has a much easier jpb to do to balance the complete pano...)

Last edited by gkaefer (2012-12-21 03:02:00)