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Hello there everyone,
I finally bought on special offer a Canon 1100D with a 18-55 III DC+75-300 III DC for 499€, and I also bought a Samyang FE 8mm F3.5 aspherical IF MC lens
I must admit, shooting with a Fisheye is quite funny and creative, but I bought it mainly to use with AutoPano
I read more or less every topic about the Samyang lens on the forum, and there are lots of tricks in order to get good results, but I would like to ask more specific questions:
I tried two different solution:
A 6+2 shots ( not very good results )
A 12 shots ( camera horizontal ) + 12 shots ( camera angled by 30° towards the ground ) + 12 shots ( camera angled 30° towards the ceiling )
Using 12+12+12 images results are pretty good ( RMS is ok ), but I'm still having some troubles about alignement of the images, means that the floor images are not aligned perfetcly, therefore the image doesn't match perfectly
I'm not using a motorized head, I just have a tripod with degrees count, and I know that with the 1100D I don't have any data to plug into AutoPano, so I'm trying to figure out the best solution to have a good result.
I haven't tried to manually adjust the control points or do any kind of optimization on the images, I just setup the kind of lens with the values listed in these topic
http://www.kolor.com/forum/t15146-stick … h-60degree
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/ … eye_photos
What I would like to ask is if anyone has found some "standard" settings ( even if every situation of shooting is different ) for interiors for AutoPano in order to achieve good results without any extra-work on the images in AutoPano.
Also I would like to know what is the ideal situation for shooting interiors...this may be a very noob question ( and I am ) but the best setting would be to use the camera in vertical or horizontal position? as far as I see around, everyone is shooting in vertical position, but I notice that using the camera horizontally and stich them together results are better...
Well, since I'm learning any advices from you guys is welcome, I just would like to see what could be the best solution for shooting interiors ![]()
Also, what is the best solution to get Zenith and Nadir using a simple tripod? or better, tripod removal?
Thanks!
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You have liitle/no chance of getting good results shooting interior panos without a proper pano head.
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... all the good gear is here.. http://www.kolor.com/buy/
Destiny...
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Thanks for the reply.
I looked at the rigs and they seems basically ( except for the motorized ones ) just standard bracket that I can easily build by myself, nothing too complicated, but it would be a matter of build those properly, and since I'm a mechanical engineer and I got some friends who owns a shop I can rely on them.
@mediavets: Could you explain a little bit more why its almost impossible to get good results without a proper bracket? is because of the non perfect alignment on the floor? or is it because of the Fisheye lens?
I want to understand what is the ideal ( perfect ) situation for shooting interiors, and if the bracket is the main problem I'm going to build/buy one of those.
Thanks again!
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RT-Visualization wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I looked at the rigs and they seems basically ( except for the motorized ones ) just standard bracket that I can easily build by myself, nothing too complicated, but it would be a matter of build those properly, and since I'm a mechanical engineer and I got some friends who owns a shop I can rely on them.
@mediavets: Could you explain a little bit more why its almost impossible to get good results without a proper bracket? is because of the non perfect alignment on the floor? or is it because of the Fisheye lens?
I want to understand what is the ideal ( perfect ) situation for shooting interiors, and if the bracket is the main problem I'm going to build/buy one of those.
Thanks again!
no panohead = no chance that lens is perfect alligned in NPP = parallax errors = bad stitching
I use the 8mm on a crop camera... using the merlin head which has a certain nadir. for this I dont need to point my 8mm lens where the nadir is. ergo I use portrait mode to cover from zenith one row of 6-7 images than I turn my merlin sitting on a ballhead 90" so my lens is pointing 90" to bottom. than I move my cam/tripod so the lens is directly over the nadir point (which I mark with a stone or coin...) these 6-7+1 images I load into autopano. no tripod, no nadir patching etc. needed.
I use the T&C handcontroller with my merlin. this device does all calculation for me... it automatically calculates the number of images per row needed to cover a sphere or whichever pattern selected...
so even if you say that automatic panohead are "overhead" for FE lens panos... buts oh man ... nothing more easier to use....
Georg
Last edited by gkaefer (2012-10-23 12:05:06)
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gkaefer wrote:
RT-Visualization wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I looked at the rigs and they seems basically ( except for the motorized ones ) just standard bracket that I can easily build by myself, nothing too complicated, but it would be a matter of build those properly, and since I'm a mechanical engineer and I got some friends who owns a shop I can rely on them.
@mediavets: Could you explain a little bit more why its almost impossible to get good results without a proper bracket? is because of the non perfect alignment on the floor? or is it because of the Fisheye lens?
I want to understand what is the ideal ( perfect ) situation for shooting interiors, and if the bracket is the main problem I'm going to build/buy one of those.
Thanks again!no panohead = no chance that lens is perfect alligned in NPP = parallax errors = bad stitching
I use the 8mm on a crop camera... using the merlin head which has a certain nadir. for this I dont need to point my 8mm lens where the nadir is. ergo I use portrait mode to cover from zenith one row of 6-7 images than I turn my merlin sitting on a ballhead 90" so my lens is pointing 90" to bottom. than I move my cam/tripod so the lens is directly over the nadir point (which I mark with a stone or coin...) these 6-7+1 images I load into autopano. no tripod, no nadir patching etc. needed.
I use the T&C handcontroller with my merlin. this device does all calculation for me... it automatically calculates the number of images per row needed to cover a sphere or whichever pattern selected...
so even if you say that automatic panohead are "overhead" for FE lens panos... buts oh man ... nothing more easier to use....
Georg
Perfectly clear!
thank you very much for the informations ![]()
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RT-Visualization wrote:
@mediavets: Could you explain a little bit more why its almost impossible to get good results without a proper bracket? is because of the non perfect alignment on the floor? or is it because of the Fisheye lens?
I want to understand what is the ideal ( perfect ) situation for shooting interiors, and if the bracket is the main problem I'm going to build/buy one of those.
That´s not only related to floor shots or a fisheye-lens. As Georg and Andrew mentioned you need to precisely align the NPP - especially indoors. Here it´s absolutely needed because of short focusing distance - shooting landscapes means long distances the NPP is not as vital as it is indoors.
Using a perfect alignment you don´t need more than 6+2 shots for a full sphere using the 8mm FE on crop or 15/16mm FE on FX.
I usually do 6x2 shots using a 5D2 and 2.8/15mm FE @25%. Using 20% overlap it´s just 5+2 shots. They give me around 220MPx for the equirectangular:
http://www.schloss-drachenburg.de/conte … dgang.html
best, Klaus
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I did some reseach about the NPP and yes, definitively I need to build a rig, otherwise I will always have the same problem when stitching the shots
I will try to build one on my own and see if I'm able to solve the problem, otherwise I will turn to the shop to buy a proper one ![]()
I'm just a bit worried about my equipment ( Canon D1100 + Samyang 8.5 FE ), means if with this rig I'm able to get good results
Only recently I found out about the beauty of photography, so right now I have to work with what I have and I hopt it would be enough for me to start do to something good
@Klaus: The interiors looks amazing...
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RT-Visualization wrote:
I did some reseach about the NPP and yes, definitively I need to build a rig, otherwise I will always have the same problem when stitching the shots
I will try to build one on my own and see if I'm able to solve the problem, otherwise I will turn to the shop to buy a proper one
Here's an inxpensive DIY 'design' that may give you some ideas:
http://www.peterloud.co.uk/nodalsamurai … murai.html
The least cost commercial pano head I know of is this one:
http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm
I'm just a bit worried about my equipment ( Canon D1100 + Samyang 8.5 FE ), means if with this rig I'm able to get good results
Only recently I found out about the beauty of photography, so right now I have to work with what I have and I hopt it would be enough for me to start do to something good
Your gear is quite good enough to start with.
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Thanks again everyone ![]()
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