i have a pb with autopano pro when some parts of the panorama are overexposed or not far.
Each time i go on the field, i record my shot in jpeg (for editing) and in raw (for post-processing). Oftent i start a panorama with jpeg pics in order to know if my pano works and after i do a HD panorama with the raw.
But, often, jpeg pano is better exposed than raw pano. An example with a part of a 360° :
First one : the pano from jpeg ... it's exposed as my raw pictures, some part overexposed some part not far ...
Second one : the pano from raw ... the final picture becomes lighter and all parts "not far" become overexposed ... and i don't know why because RAW is supposed to be more dense.
For information, all the pictures have the same exposure, without filters.
have you an idea to underexpose the final panorama and recover zones "not far from overexposed" as i see it in the RAW pictures ?
Did you try the picture histogram correction (levels) ? If you do not succeed with this tool, you might consider decoding your raws with a software dedicated to raw decoding, and then create your panorama from the decoded files.
thanks Thomas ... no it don't work. The histogram is too on the right so i don't recover any details in the overexposed area.
so, it need to underexposed the RAW in a software and after use it in autopano ?
i don't understand why it overexposes the raw files ... while it don't with jpeg. There is no button "without any colors/exposure correction" ? (even with "NONE" option ... it's overexposed)
if you work with raw files in autopano, the images are automatically decoded to tiff images and than autopano does work with these images. You do not have any influence on how this decoding does happen. if the result is not satisfying you only have one chance to decode your raw images in a dedicated application where you do have influence to the convertion settings.
I always decode my raw files in Adobe Camera Raw and I find the results are always superior to stitching from JPEG. If I want a really high quality output, I convert to 16 bit TIFF files. This also allows me to control white balance to get the look I want and control the exposure as I want it prior to stitching. I would highly recommend RAW conversion in an external program first as others have already said.