I thought they should be sharper as well. The camera and lense where on a mount and with an 8mm there was a bracket around the lens and I think I must have gotten it out of focus. I was at f7.1 so I agrre it should have been sharper. Fortunatly I have access so retakes are not an issue.

Now that you brought it up, with the current rig, I don't have to use the clamp as the rail can be shifted backwards. Thanks.

I think my biggest change have been my eyes.  I went from a Mk I to MK II but  use the same 8mm Sigma for the fisheye shots.  The Jag was taken on a mini pod as was the 62Corvette so the nadir are top and bottom.  The church was taken with both a 17x40 set at 17 for the main shot and 3 shot groups with the 8mm.  I re shot the first 4 of the panos with a 35mm fixed focal so that increased my image count from 36 to 88, sometimes a blessing, sometimes not. It seems to make the most difference in overall activity. a white room with out furniture seems to do better with less shots.

The car interiors are a work in progress, they where taken with a boom and I know why they suck. Boom sagged, zenith off and no way to get a reasonable set of nadirs which would be the side windows.  Manfrotto makes good stuff, just not for this stuff. I dug out my old C stand (steel heavy gauge) and a steel tube 3 foot boom and having a machinist thread one end of a 4 foot 7/16 steel rod (not tube) and weld a flat plate on the other end, this will allow me to mount either the 8mm with a collar ring on the end or the camera body on a rail on the other end. and the 7/16 rod just barely fits in the tube so the will be no perceptible sag.  I will use a level on the end to get parallel to the floor and then drill a hole in the clamp for a lock pin.  The camera will be rotated bu rotating the rod in the tube.

All the floor panos where re shot yesterday with the same 8mm but 4 shot instead of 5 shot and the focus set,  With the collar on the the lens you can't see the focus ring marks,  The collar ring clamp has small gap that I use to all ow the auto/manual focus switch to sit between.  At this point I used a pencil to mark the barrel for best focus (determined without the collar on).



The new pano's are stitched and has gone through the first bad stitch edits. They will be be out there in about an hour. The interiors have been semi edited, but I haven't the new rig built yet so just so you know, I know their bad. I also need to work on what lens to take the nadirs with when using the 8mm.

I have a gigapan pro for the stuff they recommend it be used for, also a nodal ninja 5, for small 8mm pano's I would just use a light stand with the collar clamp attached to the stand, then a high tech piece of blue tape with 4 pen marks.  I am putting the gigapan to more use now. It was used for the 35mm shots and this last batch of 8mm shots. With it's current rail it still sticks out a little further the optimum but is exact. Just set the gigapan for a 75deg FOV for 5 shots or 90deg for 4 shots, use the shutter on a time and walk away.  Point is Gigapan say's not to use a fisheye because their software doesn't work well with it. When will company's learn that our loyalty is to whoever does the job TODAY. Two of the 35mm / 88 shot groups just would not stitch with auropano so I used Ice, which I don't like because of lack of control, yet autopano did everything else.  I keep waffling back and forth between panotour pro and krpano tools, I know panotour pro is built on top of krpano and have just come to believe that you use both and massage a lot.