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RobertV. wrote:
Ok, a big problem. I cannot get the canon in it's nodal point. When using the L bracket my camera sits to far to the right (let's call that the X-axis). The Y-axis is not adjustable. And the Z-axis is.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k0Hk … 143747.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQq- … 143716.jpg
I know now why the pitch is reversed. I simply cannot turn my camera, as it would bring the nodal point of the camera even further from the nodal point of the pano gear.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yuGK … 143426.jpg
In this situation the X axis is ok/best, but the Z-axis is not adjustable and wrong.
The only solution that would have worked, has an edge which sticks out.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Bs6y … 143543.jpg
Would it be possible to buy this part somewhere without the edge?
And last, because the Y axis is fixed, can I really get the nodal point?
I see. You could use a flatter "crown" (Teleskop Austria or someone in the forum) or a flatter rail. From where did you get the rail with the edge? You might nag it away . . that might help a lot! Later if you need it you easily can fix a new edge.
But you also might use your camera reversed if that works and you can reverse the setting for the position of the vertical arm in PW. Then it runs as you see it on the touchscreen.
best, Klaus
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The problem with the G10 is that the screw hole is not placed below the lens, but in the middle of the camera itself.
Do you know where I could find a flatter rail? The rail I got, came with the panogear.
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RobertV. wrote:
The problem with the G10 is that the screw hole is not placed below the lens, but in the middle of the camera itself.
Do you know where I could find a flatter rail? The rail I got, came with the panogear.
Using the L-bracket you shouldn´t have problems i mean. Did you try to disassmble the L-braket and use only it`s short rail for mounting the camera in portrait-mode?
That usually works fine - at least with DSLRs. Give it a try anyway!
You can use a quick-release plate for compensating the lateral offset of the lens-axis from the srew-axis.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2012-09-03 15:56:48)
Online
RobertV. wrote:
Do you know where I could find a flatter rail? The rail I got, came with the panogear.
Somebody here made himself one from a hard piece of wood - works fine! But try Teledkop Austria and other astronomy shops - the rails are standardized in width, but not
in height afaik (but maybe i´m wrong).
best, Klaus
P.S. Use the search option in the forum and search for "Merlin+Crowns".
PS2 as an example: http://www.kolor.com/forum/t8634-is-thi … wn-correct
Last edited by klausesser (2012-09-03 16:01:53)
Online
HI klausesser, how do I fit the disassembled part of the L bracket to the panogear? because the tightening knob (with the little leaver) is in the way.
Last edited by RobertV. (2012-09-03 18:09:22)
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RobertV. wrote:
because the tightening knob (with the little leaver) is in the way.
Remove it. I did it also - don´t exactly know how i did any more
but it worked for several other people too.
Then use a Manfrotto camera-screw which is long enough to go through the rail to fix your camera.
Sounds more complicated than it is.
best, Klaus
Online
The description of the usage of Woden pieces for mounting a camera is here:
http://www.kolor.com/forum/p37570-2009- … 570#p37570
Nice and cheap system !
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The Papywizard XML presets for the "G10 at 28 mm equivalent" I have posted is for the camera mounted in "portrait orientation" (Vertical) !!!
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The dismantling of the L bracket is expained here (only in french but with pictures ...)
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-fr/action/ … e_fixation
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But even with just this part sticking out, I cannot place the bracket because there is no room at all.
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RobertV. wrote:
But even with just this part sticking out, I cannot place the bracket because there is no room at all.
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-fr/images- … gScrew.jpg
I used the short rail for three years with 20D and 5D2 and lenses between 10,5mm and 300mml
best, Klaus
look at this one:
Last edited by klausesser (2012-09-03 22:31:19)
Online
Hi Klausesser,
Becaus I have the G10, the screw connection between the camera and the rail must be somewhere near the pitch axis. Because you have a larger lens, you can place you camera much further from the pitch turning point.
Last edited by RobertV. (2012-09-03 23:37:39)
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RobertV. wrote:
Hi Klausesser,
Becaus I have the G10, the screw connection between the camera and the rail must be somewhere near the pitch axis. Because you have a larger lens, you can place you camera much further from the pitch turning point.
Use your phantasy - there´s always a way . . ![]()
![]()
best and good luck, Klaus
Online
you could replace the crown with this one...
http://www.teleskop-austria.at/shop/ind … mp;lng=eng
cheeseplate:
http://www.enjoyyourcamera.com/Videozub … :5509.html
and I use more ofthen instead of the "default" dovetail part of Panogear package and T&C available from:
http://www.typeandcolour.de/index.php?t … p;up=mount
I more ofthen use this one on my merlin:
(you can trust this valid Verisign SSL certified site...I had to add a manual exception whyever...)
https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/pr … raube.html
if you use this dovetail and mount the cheesplate on it I think you can handle the offset of your G10 Screw...
Georg
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@klausesser, thanks!
@gkaefer, your last link was the part I was looking for, thanks!
@artisan, wouldn't it be simpeler to use this part
https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/pr … raube.html
and slide it in such a position that the center of the pitch rotation meets exactly below the lens? (portrait mode)
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gkaefer wrote:
and I use more ofthen instead of the "default" dovetail part of Panogear package and T&C available from:
http://www.typeandcolour.de/index.php?t … p;up=mount
You also can have the hole for the srew a little off-set from it´s original position to meet the lens-axis´ position. Just nag a piece away from the hole in an L-shaped way.
You also may have a rail with an off-center position of the hole for the screw.
A perfect solution would be a flatter crown with a flatter rail carrying a quick-mount plate which has a counterpart on the camera providing the correct off-set.
best, Klaus
Online
Hi Artisan,
What you show me with the black arrow I do understand. I have never placed my G10 in such a manner. What I did in the end looks a bit (as in no protruding edge) like this:
so I can adjust the "black arrow" just not the green arrow direction.
Last edited by RobertV. (2012-09-04 23:50:23)
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HI Ed,
Al the information you gave takes some time for me to digest, so I will reply as soon as I have.
I also have a nikon d7000, so this about the g10 is additional. However, most of the time I can have the panogear and g10 with me (because those are mine). The D7000 has to be borrowed (company....).
I did a test pano yesterday (so with the NP as close as possible without using new parts or modified panogear), and the paralax is almost none exsistent. I do think that this is because it's an outside pano, objects far away.
"the G10 clearly is a camera that need the Panogear to be extensively modified and frankly......I don't think it's worth the trouble. "
Agreed, so I think the paralax error I now have is acceptable.
Thanks for your time and input!
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